“Its not your fault,I’m really tired of people you trust screwing up your property and not standing responsible for what they mess up”. I changed the oil on my earlier cars without a problem. It measures as M12x1.5 and I want to repair mine using this kit. They gave me a Tempo which was tough to live with for a week. They found nothing wrong, gave me an extended warranty for future work and apologized for the inconvenience, informing me that, well, you have new gaskets, coolent and a free oil change. 35 year old oil pan bolt stripped out. The kit tool is used to install the insert in the threaded hole. The shavings were silver in color, although I'd imagine that both threads are the same color. 6 Aug 2018 at 12:28 AM #1 Discussion Starter • #1 • Jan 25, 2012. Parts to replace the oil pan include, new oil pan, drain pan bolt, and new gasket. The copper color around the bolt heads is a copper-based thread dressing. The plug was one of those slightly oversized rethreading bolts. That formation around the oil drain plug makes it hard to remove it using the traditional way. missileman July 6, 2016, 3:45am #7 +1 for @dagosa. Who is responsible, me or the mechanic. As soon as the threads start to bind, the thought is " a little dirt" instead of trying over and wire brushing the threads…it’s reach for the impact wrench ! Anyone hav When the service writer said that it was near closing time and they didn’t know what to do I merely stated that !) Years ago, a mechanic that did my work was changing a water pump and the wrench slipped and poked a hole in the radiator. I got the plug to hold but it is dripping. I tried to oversize to 14mm x 1.5 with a tap but it stripped past that. @Triedaq, you may be the same technical level , but you are much more mature than any 17 year old. One of the challenges in oil pan drain repair is that it can be costly and time-consuming to replace the entire oil pan drain. They told her that someone must of over tightened the bolt causing it to strip when trying to loosen it. That means a lot of oil changes…the pan and bolt are fine. I only had to pay for the gas I used in the loaner car. Maybe see if … @Triedaq If it’s the plug just buy a new plug. I drained the oil, put blue loctite on the threads of the fumoto valve, screwed it up into the oil pan, and then let it set up over night. So I had to replace the oil pan. The rethreading bolt was a M12x1.75. If the dealer considers the car they sold you as “old” when it’s a 2005, that says little for cars they are selling and their confidence in them. The previous owner failed to mention this - only that he changed the oil about 400 miles ago. You could retap the hole and use a bigger drain plug. So, with a long drill bit, a Heli coil kit and the help of some 8-point sockets this job is easy and very effective as long as you can drill and tap a hole straight. 2005 is old enough for that to happen?? Step 3 It doesn't help that the oil drain hole's threads are aluminum and the drain bolt is steel.. Maybe they shouldn’t use the impact wrench in the future. During some periodic maintenance in the shop, the TR6 sump was finished up. Thread starter 56napco; Start date Feb 12, 2017; 5. Years ago after my wifes Accord had 10 k more then the warranty, the dealer informed my that they feared the block might have a crack in it but would fix it for nothing. The fasteners are threaded into the steel block for the most part. Note! Most threading problems in my experience, especially working with SS and aluminum marine bolts which are softer and more prone, has been the lack of patience in worrying the threads together. Since I purchased my vehicle I have taken it to dealership for it’s regular maintanance and oil changes. Ended up replacing the lower pan ($64 like 8 years ago) and going with a fumoto drain valve. He dropped the transmission only to find that it was the heater core that was leaking. I owned a 1978 Oldsmobile for 33 years and did almost all the oil changes myself and never stripped the threads. stripped out oil pan threads, stripped threads in drain pan, stripped out theads oil pan, helicoils, drain pan stripped out, crankcase stripped theads, oil drain pan stripped, oil drain pan stripped ... which on an older Honda is problematic since flanges are rusting and bolts are probably rusted together. Self tapping oil pan bolts are a very inexpensive option and one I have used for years after I bought a used car and discovered the pan bolt was stripped. They should replace your oil pan free (not that an oversized plug wouldn’t work, but they broke it and should have to fix what they broke), and then you should never take your car to them for work again. This type of socket is appropriate for square applications. Self tapping oil pan bolts are a very inexpensive option and one I have used for years after I bought a used car and discovered the pan bolt was stripped. I have a few simple questions: 1. Age is not a cause. Remember also that the dealer techs changing oil are one step up from washing the new cars. If they did every oil change, I’d say they were responsible. A stripped oil pan drain plug can be especially frustrating because it will leave your oil drain plug loose causing a constant leak. You’re not the first poster here with this problem, and I get angry every time I read that a dealership has told someone that they need their oil pan replaced because the drain hole is stripped. any info is great. Where is the best place to get a replacement bolt if it is the bolt that is stripped? If the threads are completely stripped it can even lead to the drain plug not fitting at all which would leave your engine completely empty of oil and unable to be ran. During my latest visit I was informed that my Yesterday I learned that the PO had stripped out the drain plug threads in the oil pan. Seldom ever does a pan have to be replaced because of stripped drain plug threads. During winter fun driving, hit drain bolt on a rock and distorted the thread for the drain bolt. Then tap the hole using the tap provided in the kit for the 5/16-24 UNF threaded insert. What's the best way to get it off? 33 Posts . “Remember also that the dealer techs changing oil are one step up from washing the new cars”. Do none of those people know what an oversized plug is for? 8 Posts . I find it hard to believe that a bolt which was loosened and tightened 32 times (4 oil changes per year) is damaged by anything but abuse. Lower oil pan is very thin and only a couple threads thick for the bolt to grab. While the job of replacing the lower pan is technically easy, it does take some time to really clean off and prep the mounting surface to get a good seal with the CIPG. 8-point sockets are handy because as you will see, the thread tap and insert tool are square on the end. If it’s the pan I’m very sorry for your luck. The TIME-SERT kit helps you to easily repair aluminum socket bolt threads. It’s stripped because someone either cross-threaded it or put it on too tight. If that is the case, replacing the oil pan wouldn't help. Car: 2003 Jetta TDI, 205K miles. I agree. Repairing Stripped Threads for Oil Pan Bolts, Removal and rework of a flywheel/ring gear assembly, Rebuilding the Triumph TR Transmission and Overdrive. For them to give you no option but to replace the pan, is worth going elsewhere. Am I on the hook? All bolts are now torqued properly so any seepage from the front is now doubtful. Some years later, a mechanic misdiagnosed a coolant leak as a core plug behind the transmission. are stripped. Firstly, there is absolutely no legitimate reason whay a hole should get stripped out. The latest is a stripped oil drain plug that appears to have been held in place by JB weld (or some other hard plastic-like substance). That shop gave me a gallon jug of water and told me to watch the temperature gauge and I would make the 50 miles home which I did. Helicoil or tap? Discussion Starter • #1 • Sep 28, 2013. That's a pretty cheap repair and total time to do the repair is about 2hrs depending on beer consumption. I have a 2003 Jetta that I purchased several months ago. Are the threads on the plug stripped or is it the threads in the pan? !..If the oil change is done correctly then the oil pan and bold threads should last as long as the rest of the engine. If you use a long 21/64ths bit you don’t even have to remove the pan to make the fix. If they’re the only ones that have ever been involved with changing the oil then someone in the past has apparently gotten ham-fisted with tightening it and it’s their fault. I had had trouble along the road and another shop had made the same diagnosis of a leaking core plug. My pan has the baffle in it. Tiny Bolt, Major Disaster Your engine needs oil to run. I wanted transportation because I had an event to attend that evening and 2) I wanted the problem with the drain plug resolved. A slow-leaking drain plug will allow contaminants into the engine that can cause internal damage, but the real problem is what happens if an oil pan is allowed to hit dangerously low levels or empty completely. Never used a torque wrench either on them. Man, my 89 Riv got the oil changed every month for 15 years and never got the pan stripped. All that is required is a few tools and 10 minutes of spare time. The oil then tends to oxidize under high temperatures. Then reinstall the original fastener. My sister goes to change her oil for her alh tdi at the shop the other day and found out that the oil pan bolt was stripped. The sludge forms around the drain plug because the oil in the engine has exceeded its oil change time. The threads appear to be stripped out in the engine block. I may yet achieve a leak free TR6. It seems like I’m being swindled here, and the whole reason I take my car to them is to ensure work is done correctly. @jtsanders–I am about the same level and yet I don’t strip drain plugs. Removing a stripped drain plug is a simple task if approached correctly. It’s sold at every parts house in town specifically for this kind of problem. It is purely, totally, absolutely the fault of the tech(s) that changed the oil. You simply drill the stripped-out hole to size to be tapped. Sheesh, way to go pal. I’ve been able to remove all I saw from the drain hole and it looks like shiny metal now, albeit stripped threads. They can’t have it both ways. 8 years should NOT be old by any stretch. Just to continue your theme of “good mechanics”. Hello to all you fine people, thanks Stripped oil pan bolt? There are kits to rethread the holes with helicoils, there are self-tapping plugs, both made specifically for repair of this problem, which is totally unnecessary but also unfortunately common. This kit was a lifesaver. They gave us a loaner car for a week and proceeded to take the head off do a magnaflux crack detection. I have changed the oil pan gasket on my 98 wrangler 4.0 and now am the proud owner of a stripped hole in the block for the front left pan hole. 56napco Active Member. So, today I found the rear bolt that holds the oil cooler lines to the oil pan above the oil filter is stripped out in the oil pan. In over 45 years of changing my own (and others) oil, I have never stripped a plug, and I’ve had some vehicles for hundreds of thousands of miles…one for 338,000 miles. Typically, it takes 30 minutes to repair with the kit. The kit tool is used to install the insert in the threaded hole. oil plug is stripped and the oil pan will need to be replaced before my next service. Experienced technicians are better used for repairs. I had the vehicle in for some work and decided to have the oil changed. This may free the bolt from the oil pan or could break the bolt head off, leaving the rest of the bolt stuck in the oil pan. 6.0L oil cooler bolt stripped in oil pan. Then reinstall the original fastener. I assumed it was the oil pan stripped since I found metal shavings/coils wrapped around the bolt when I screwed it back out. Two of the bolts in front are threaded into an aluminum cap that fits under the crank shaft. As for being old! The service writer came into the waiting room with a long face and said that the drain plug had been put in too tight and the technician couldn’t get it out. The fasteners were all torqued to 20-foot pounds as stipulated in the manual. I'm thinking it was seriously over tightened but the last person. Not sure how, I wasn't even putting much torque on the bolt when it went. My first car, a 1947 Pontiac for which I paid $75 back in 1961 leaked oil around the drain plug. The bolts appear to go through the bolt holes in both the "cage", and oil pan, and then thread into the block of the motor. The molecules mix with the dirt in the engine coming from comb… My biggest complaint ? I believe the total is around $125 for everything. Do I need to pull the whole pan back off to tap the hole, or can I go through the current pan if I’m careful. Hammer a bolt head extractor onto the damaged oil pan bolt--if the oil pan bolt head is damaged--and twist the bolt free using an appropriately-sized ratchet. Another voice of agreement with the others. Then tap the hole using the tap provided in the kit for the 5/16-24 UNF threaded insert. Links to products that would definitely work? I had a similar problem with a Ford dealer. Its not your fault,I’m really tired of people you trust screwing up your property and not standing responsible for what they mess up.Most of the time they don’t even offer an apology for the busted hub covers,greasy fingerprints on the sun visor etc-Kevin. The drain plugged is stripped, however, and we didn't proceed with the change as we didn't know if the bolt would securely fit back in. It is cheap and fast and you can still keep your oil pan drain. Second, there is absolutely no legitimate reason why an oil pan should be replaced becauise of a stripped fill hole. Age has nothing to do with it. There were still threads on the bolt, although Im … I had the proof that the dealer was the last place that the oil was changed. And I bet you know a lot more than those newbie techs. The oil pan is stripped where the drain bolt (drain plug) goes. This dealership is what gives other dealerships a bad name. Ok, stop laughing now. The dealership tightened the plug too tight and stripped it. In the process of replacing the pan I stripped two of the bolts. If they are not willing to foot the bill, escalate it up to the manufacturer. Or retap the hole and try the same plug. I want to check to see if the casing threads are stripped, or just the bolt. For them to give you no option but to replace the pan, is worth going elsewhere. I'd stripped the oil drain hole on my girlfriend's 2003 Civic when changing oil. You can bet that someone who does not take the time to do this, would never think of doing it to their car. I have had good results with independent shops taking responsibility for goof-ups. The plug catches on a few threads part way in but is loose when fully screwed in. My question is do I need to drill a new hole at the oilpain or do I just redrill the existing oil pan hole that was stripped then use this kit Time-Sert 1215c oil pan thread repair kit ? For about a dollar I bought an oversize plug and solved the problem. Changing your vehicle's oil on your own is a cheaper alternative to paying a shop to do it. They are full of it or some idiot tightened the plug with an impact gun. I don’t know how many hundreds of times I’ve changed oil in the last 50 years on old and new and never stripped an oil plug. Fortunately, there is a fix for this, Heli coil inserts as seen on the tip of the black tool second from left in the picture. If this is the case, here is my suggestion: -Do NOT drive the bike -Remove the oil pan completely How does one strip the threads on an oil pan? Tried to get my oil changed the other day on 05 M3. You simply drill the stripped-out hole to size to be tapped. The real onus is from the top down in what management expects from their mechanics. Find another mechanic. The main reason why an oil drain plug gets stuck is due to sludge. I stripped the bolt to my oil pan using a crescent wrench. He took the radiator to a radiator shop and had it repaired at no cost to me. Stripped oil pan sump plug Discussion in ' E90 Saloon / E92 Coupe / E93 Convertible M3 (2008-2013) ' started by JosephB , Aug 6, 2018 . I got both and the next day I guess they figured out how to remove the drain plug. +1 for @dagosa. Aluminum is not as strong as steel so the threads frequently get stripped out. Everyone: Hello. And I change the oil every 5k miles. They claimed that my 2005 car is old and that is the reason the threads I lack dexterity with my hands, but if I can remove a drain plug and replace it without damaging threads, anybody else should be able to do this. Your dealership is full of crap. I have an 05 with over 230k miles. Ah but you have had a good experience overall.To put it simply I have not,I believe that being a latecomer to the auto repair scene,I’ve had more exposure to the fly by nights.The shops I frequent now are staffed by good people,takes awhile but you can find them(beforehand I either did the work myself or had a family member do it)-Kevin. Pretty cool. But of course I didn't strip the FRONT bolts, I tripped two bolts in … Of course, this is not done without risk. During oxidation, the molecules of engine oil break down. I’d take it elsewhere. Apply JB Weld to the threads of the oil pan drain plug, both sides of the attached gasket, and the drain plug opening in the oil pan. At any rate, the mechanic would not take a dime for his labor of removing the transmission. Feb 12, 2017 #1 2002 GMC Yukon XL, 6.0L. Screw the oil pan drain plug into place.